General Questions Getting Started -- Where in the house should I brew wine or beer? How much can I legally make? Is it expensive? Sterilization -- What needs to be sterilized, when, and how. Hydrometers -- The basics on how to use one. Yeasts -- The special ingredient in all wines and beers that make them ferment. Be careful not to use the wrong kind. Soda Pop -- Yes, you can make your own soda pop at home, too. Beer Brewing Questions Basic Beer Recipe -- The first step in a brewmaster's training. Common Brewing Terms -- Beef up your vocabulary to be on the same page as fellow brewers. Getting Started -- A list of ingredients, equipment, and basic instructions needed for every batch. Grains -- Everything you wanted to know about different grains, with definitions. Grain Usage -- How to use the various grains. Hops -- General information about hops. Hop Varieties -- A listing of all available varieties and their attributes. Oak Flavor -- Different ways to achieve a full or light flavor of oak in your wine or beer. Wort Chiller -- Specific instructions in how to use this equipment. Wine Making Questions Basics -- What do I need to make wine? What is the process? What is 'topping off'? Barrels -- Do I need a barrel to make wine? How do I use and prepare a barrel? Barrel Maintenance -- How to be sure your old and new barrels are ready for use. Bottling -- Do I need to bottle my wine? How many bottles are needed? What are the crystals on the bottom? Corks -- What size cork should I use? How do I prepare corks? Do bottles need to sealed in another way also? What corker should I use with a certain type of cork? Equipment for Starting From Grapes -- What equipment do I need to make wine from fresh grapes? Fining and Filtering -- What is meant by 'fining' a wine? Should I filter my wine? Fruit, Yeast & Chemical Ingredients -- These are often added to wine. How much is needed and why? Grapes -- How do I get fresh grapes for winemaking? Test Kits -- What is an acid test kit? What is a sulfur dioxide test kit? [Back To Top] Getting Started Do I need a permit to make beer or wine at home? No. The Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms allows up to 100 gallons per adult per household (up to 200 gallons per family) a year before they need to be notified and issue a permit. 100 gallons equals 960 bottles (40 cases) of beer or 480 bottles (40 cases) of wine per year. If you have any questions, you should contact your local or state officials directly. Does it smell? Do I need a special place? How much room does it take up? The initial stages of fermentation do have an odor, but it goes away after a few days. The making of beer usually involves boiling the malt and hops together, which gives an aroma of hot sugar with herbs. This also will go away after a few days. The fermenting buckets or carboys (the glass jugs) take up a small space, and can be put in an accessible, but out of the way place. Few people have the luxury of having a room or space available strictly for brewing or winemaking, so frequently a closet, spare room, or area in the basement is used. Is it expensive? The initial costs can seem to be quite a bit, as with any new hobby or undertaking. Once the essentials are taken care of, the only costs are ingredient costs. For beer, the cost of a batch can run from about $15 to $40 - depending on the recipe. For wine, the cost varies from about $30-$90 - again depending on the ingredients used. If using fresh fruit, that cost will depend on the amount used. [Back To Top] Sterilization Why do I need to sterilize everything? The making of beer or wine involves converting sugar to alcohol. The initial liquid is sweet, and a prime feeding ground for all kinds of bacteria, mold and yeast. The idea is to reduce (or eliminate) the unwanted bacteria, mold and yeast, and use only the desired yeast to give the desired product. Use of recommended sterilizers and/or sanitizers helps control this. Everything that comes in contact with the wort (unfermented beer) or must (unfermented wine) needs to be sterilized: siphon hoses, buckets, hydrometers, racking tubes, bottles, etc. When do I sterilize? Just prior to use. All the sterilizers will wear off or dissipate with time. While it may be convenient to sterilize your bottles or equipment the night or morning before you need it; they will not stay that way until you are ready to use them much later that day. Sterilize (following the directions) and drain just prior to use. Equipment does not need to be dry to be used. Can I use the dishwasher to sterilize my bottles? No, dishwashers are not recommended. The opening of the bottle is too small to allow a good, reliable amount of water to get to all areas inside the bottle -- where it is most important. [Back To Top] Hydrometers What is a hydrometer? Why is it important? How do I use it? A hydrometer is used to measure the beginning and finished specific gravity of beer or wine. Specific gravity measures the amount of sugar in the liquid. It will start out high and fall as the sugar is converted to alcohol. Beer will not ferment out completely, and will contain some residual sugar. Wine will ferment completely, and will finish below 1.000 (the specific gravity of water). A hydrometer allows you to monitor the progress of your beverage, and can alert you to signs of trouble (stuck ferment, fermentation not started). To use a hydrometer, take a sample of your beer or wine, and place it in a test cylinder large enough to allow the hydrometer to float freely. The cylinder the hydrometer came in usually works fine, and test cylinders can also be purchased. Float the hydrometer in the cylinder, and give it a little spin to remove any bubbles that may cling to the sides of the instrument. When it stops spinning and bouncing up and down, the level of the liquid should be read against the specific gravity scale (the one that starts with 0.990 at the top and ends with 1.200 at the bottom). The liquid will form a "dip" and will look like this: |(|. Read the scale at the bottom of the dip or meniscus, as it is called. Where it reads on the scale equals the specific gravity. Practice with water first: it should give a specific gravity of 1.000. More detailed discussions can be found in any good reference book on beer or wine making. [Back To Top] Yeasts Can I use the yeast I buy in the supermarket or health food store to make beer or wine? No. Bread yeast is specifically designed to make bread, beer yeast designed for beer and wine yeast for wine (although some types of beer use wine yeast). If you try to use one for the other, you will be disappointed with the results, and you most likely will not get what you wanted. In the worst case, you will have to throw out the whole batch. The brewer's yeast available in health food stores is a nutritional product, and will not ferment. In the early days of fermentation, the role of yeast was not known, and depended heavily on airborne yeasts (wild yeast). Therefore, the fermentation was a hit-or-miss type of process. Using a product designed for your process will give you the control over the process, rather than the other way around. What is yeast nutrient? Yeast Energizer? Yeast nutrient contains the vitamins, nutrients and hulls necessary for good yeast growth. Yeast energizer is a more concentrated form for extra boost. Nutrient is usually recommended as an addition to yeast during fermentation to ensure the yeast does not become sluggish. [Back To Top] Soda Pop Can I make my own soda pop? Yes. Concentrates to make soda are easy to use. You need the concentrate, table sugar, water and champagne yeast. Mix it all together, following the directions, then bottle in sterilized beer bottles and cap. Full carbonation will occur in about two weeks at room temperature. The yeast does begin to ferment the sugar, but as the bottle is sealed, it has no where to go, so it carbonates the soda. It stops at that point also. A very small amount of alcohol is produced, but not enough to cause any harm. (Liquid cough syrup typically contains more alcohol!) [Back To Top] Basic Beer Recipe Ingredients: 2 – 3.3 lb. cans Malt Extract (Light, Dark or Amber) 1 lb. Crystal Malt (grain) 1 ½ oz hop pellets 1 pkt. Burton Water Salts 1 muslin straining bag 2 pkgs. yeast ¾ cup priming sugar Equipment needed: 12- 16 qt stainless steel or enameled pot (NO aluminum) Single stage fermenter (plastic bucket) and 5 gallon glass carboy Stopper and fermentation lock Racking tube and siphon hose Thermometer, hydrometer Instructions: Crack the crystal grain with a rolling pin, put into the muslin bag and knot the end of the bag. Combine with 1½ gallons of cold water, bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let steep for 5 minutes. Remove and discard grain, then add the 2 cans of malt extract, the Burton Water Salts and hops. Bring carefully back to the boil. Do not let boil over, and stir often to avoid burning malt. Reduce heat to medium and continue to boil gently for 30 minutes. (Disregard instructions on malt cans). Dissolve 1 tablespoon of B-Brite in 1 gallon of cold water and sanitize all the equipment (plastic bucket, lid, hydrometer, and thermometer). Rinse well with cold water. Remove pot from stove, and place in a bathtub of cold water. Allow to cool for 10 –15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cooled wort to plastic fermenter containing a few gallons of cold water, then bring volume up to 5 ¼ gallons with more cold water. When the temperature of the wort is between 70-80° F, rehydrate the yeast by adding the yeast packets to ½ cup luke warm water. Let stand for about 10 minutes, then add to the wort and stir vigorously Specific gravity: Starting – 1.035-1.040 Finished 1.008-1.012 Take hydrometer reading by immersing it into a small amount of wort. The hydrometer holder will act as a beaker. Fill beaker ¾ full, to be sure hydrometer will float. Read level of wort from the Specific Gravity scale. Starting gravity should be 1.035-1.040. Attach fermentation lock, and fill halfway with water. Fermentation should begin within 24 hours. Try to keep room temperature between 65-70° F. Keep out of direct sun or bright light. Single Stage brewing: Let ferment for 7-10 days. Check hydrometer reading after 7 days. If finished gravity has been reached, prepare to bottle. If it is not finished, replace lid (but not sample), and let sit a day or two longer. Take another reading. Bottle as soon as finished gravity is reached. Two Stage brewing: The plastic bucket is your primary fermenter. Start your beer in this. After 3-4 days, check the hydrometer reading. If it has fallen to half the original reading, sanitize your glass carboy with B-Brite, and siphon the beer into it. DO NOT SPLASH!! Leave the sediment behind in the plastic bucket. In 7-10 days, check the reading again. When the finished gravity is reached, prepare to bottle. Bottling Needed: Plastic bucket with racking set up or bottling kit 2 cases of either 12 oz bottles (24 per case) or 22 oz bottles (12 per case) Bottle capper and caps B-Brite Finished beer and priming sugar Clean and rinse well all equipment and bottles (not caps) with B-Brite. Boil caps in water for 5 minutes. Dissolve priming sugar by heating it in 8 oz water or finished beer. Place finished beer on a counter top or table. Place bottling bucket below on floor. Siphon beer into bottling bucket. Don’t splash. Avoid the sediment on the bottom. Add dissolved priming sugar and stir gently with a sanitized spoon or racking tube. Place primed beer on counter or table. Using bottle filler, siphon into bottles. Seal with caps. Store upright at room temperature for about 2 weeks to allow carbonation to develop. After beer is fully carbonated, it can be stored in a cool place. Beer will continue to improve in flavor for about 3 months, and will remain fresh until it is about 6 months old. [Back To Top] Common Brewing Terms Carboy:Also known as fermentation vessels, it is a large (generally 5 gallons or more) glass bottle in which the fermentation process takes place. Fermentation Lock:Also known as water seals or air traps, it is a small device which is mounted in the stopper of the carboy during fermentation. This device prevents air and contaminants from entering while simultaneously allowing the venting of carbon dioxide gas during fermentation. Brewkettle:An enamel coated or stainless steel cooking pot which can hold approximately 4 gallons liquid. Do Not Use An Aluminum Pot! Wort:Pronounced "wurt", it is mixture of malt extract and hot water. This is what beer is prior to fermentation. Hops (or hop pellets):Hops are flowers with a bitter flavor. The bitterness balances the sweet flavor of the malt. Hops are usually sold in the form of compressed pellets. Primary Fermenter:A food-grade container, usually a white plastic bucket and lid, which can hold approximately 6 gallons of liquid. Yeast:Dehydrated yeast is available in small paper packages which are "ready-to-pitch." [Back To Top] Getting Started What you need to start: Ingredients: Malt Extract Specialty Grains Hops Clean Water Yeast Corn Sugar (Priming Sugar) Muslin bag (cheese cloth) Equipment: Brewkettle (16 to 20 quarts) Fermentation Lock Primary Fermenter Bottles Bottling Bucket Bottle Capper Siphon Hose Bottle Caps Racking Cane Bottle Filler Unscented Household Bleach or Other Sanitizer Solution Long-Handled Spoon Floating Thermometer Hydrometer A Step-By-Step Introduction to Brewing Beer A) Boiling Soak the two cans of malt extract syrup in hot water for at least twenty minutes. This makes the syrup easier to pour. While they soak, bring two gallons of water to 154°F. check water temperature with your floating thermometer. Crack the specialty grains with a rolling pin, (the malt can will do in a pinch) and place the grain into the muslin bag and tie the bag. Place grain into your Brewkettle and let steep for 20 minutes in the 154°F. water. It's OK if your water temperature is a little over or under the 154°F. After the 20 minutes remove the bag of grains and discard. Add the malt extract to the water, stir until its all dissolved and bring the mixture to a boil. Boil the mixture, called wort, for at least 60 minutes (watch closely as it will boil over very quickly!). Stir occasionally. Add your hops at the appropriate times given for your recipe. Hops are generally added at the beginning of the boil (this is called bittering hops) half way through the boil (flavoring hops) and the last five minutes (aroma hops). B) Cooling and Pitching WARNING: The wort is boiling hot and can burn if it contacts the skin. When you are finished boiling, you need to cool the wort to 75°F. - 80°F. Place your floating thermometer into your brewkettle after you turn of the heat. This will let you know when you have cooled the wort to the correct tempeture. Place your brewkettle into a cold water bath in your sink. If your sink is not big enough use your bath tub. Add the cooled wort to the 3 ¼ to 3 ½ gallons of fresh cold water that you have already placed into your sanatized primary fermenter (Refer to the sanitizing section for preparing your fresh cold water). Sprinkle the packets of yeast over the wort. This is known as "pitching the yeast" You must work quickly so that the wort is exposed to air as briefly as possible. Do not stir at this point. Cover the fermenter again with the lid and attach the fermentation lock. Add water to the lock until it is half filled. C) Sanitizing While you are boiling, sanitize your primary fermenter using a solution of one (1) ounce bleach to one (1) gallon of water (or ) Sponge all the surfaces of your fermenter with the sanitizing solution and rinse well with hot water. From this point on, everything that can potentially come in contact with your beer must be sanitized, either with a clean sponge or by soaking it in sanitizing solution. This is very important, any contamination will result in spoiling the entire batch of beer. Fill your fermenter with 3 ¼ to 3 ½ gallons of fresh, cold water and cover with the sanitized lid. D) Fermenting Fermentation should start within 24 hours, but could take a bit longer. A sure sign of fermentation is the bubbling of carbon-dioxide through the fermentation lock. The bubbling should be rapid and vigorous for two (2) to three (3) days and then gradually slow down. Keep the beer at room temperature, protected from light and in a place where children or animals can't disturb it. Fourteen (14) days after fermentation has begun, bottling can take place. E.) Bottling Sanitize your bottles by soaking them in a solution of one (1) to two (2) ounces of bleach to five (5) gallons of water, or fill each bottle with the solution. Let the bottles soak in the solution for at least 45 minutes. Rinse each bottle thoroughly with hot tap water and make sure the bottles do not have any residue in the bottom. Sanitize your bottling bucket, siphon, racking cane, bottle filler and anything else which will make contact with the beer using the sanitizing solution used for the fermenter. Sanitize your bottle caps by boiling them in water for 1 minute. Do not boil any longer as you may weaken the caps. Dissolve ¾ cup of corn sugar (4 ounces by weight) in a cup of water. Boil this for ten (10) minutes. Put your fermenter of beer on a counter top and the bottling bucket on the floor. Pour the sugar solution into the bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter into the bottling bucket. Do this carefully, without splashing or agitating the beer and leave the sediment in the bottom of the fermenter. (This is called "racking.") Don't expose your beer to the outside air any more than you have to and make sure all surfaces the beer contacts are sanitized. Lay a towel or other cloth on the floor. Put the bottling bucket on the counter top, hook up the racking cane, siphon and bottle filler, and begin filling the bottles. The bottling process can be messy, so make appropriate precautions to catch the spills. Fill each bottle to approximately one (1) inch from the top and cap immediately. Continue filling each bottle until the beer is within one-half (½) inch from the bottom of the bottling bucket. This is to prevent bottling any sediment left at the bottom of the bucket. F) Aging and Testing The beer brewing process is now complete. Store your filled and capped bottles in a cool dark place for two (2) weeks to allow the natural carbonation process to continue. At the end of this two (2) week carbonation process, open one of the bottles and taste the fruits of your labor. If all went well, the beer should taste as the recipe described. Congratulations! You've just become a homebrewer, good luck in all your future brewing! [Back To Top] Grains Barley malt is the basis of most beers. The malting process converts the starches in the grain to sweeter, softened kernels. The grain is first steeped in water until it has absorbed a fair amount of moisture; then drained and kept at controlled temperatures until it begins to sprout. During this time, enzymes are activated which will later convert starch to sugar. The sprouting is halted by gently drying the malt. The sprouts are removed and the malt cured before use. The remaining starches are later converted in a process called "mashing" to fermentable sugars by the previously activated enzymes. Modification refers to how much of the original starch had been used in the germination process. The higher the modification, the more starch was used. Highly modified malts are easier to mash, yield a clearer beer, but also have less sugar to extract into the wort. Less modified malts will yield more sugar after a mash, but also require a controlled mash schedule and protein rest. Two different types of grain are available to the brewer, and refer to how the grain looks in the field. 2-row yields a higher extract with less husk material. Microbrewers, European and British brewers use it. It has the widest selection of styles and varieties. 6-row is used primarily by large American breweries as it contains more starch-degrading enzyme, and therefore is better when used in conjunction with corn or rice. Mashing is the process by which the malted grain is converted into fermentable wort. Heat and moisture is needed to convert the remaining starch to sugars. Several methods are available, and are detailed in the mashing section of any beer brewing reference book. Lovibond is a method by which malt and beer color are determined. The lower the number, the lighter the malt/finished beer, and vice versa. It is usually expressed as a range of numbers, and may be abbreviated using the letter "L". Other grains are occasionally used in brewing, and are added as adjuncts. They can add body, flavor or color. Oats, corn, rice or wheat can be used, depending on the recipe or style. [Back To Top] Grain Usage Note: most of these grains should be mashed to gain the most benefit. Please refer to any good beer-brewing book for more information. This is meant as a brief description only. English (2 Row) Black Malt: Lovibond (L) 472-566. Pale malt that has been roasted at very high temperatures so that the sugars crystallize and almost carbonize, leaving no aromatics. Gives an intense burnt caramel flavor and a black color to stouts and certain brown ales. Contributes to head retention. Also referred to as Black Patent malt. Chocolate Malt: L 340-453. Pale malt that has been roasted to a dark brown (chocolate) color. It ahs no enzyme content, but retains some of the aromatics and sweet flavor. Depending on the amount used, it adds a smooth, mellow, toasted or nutty flavor to dark beers. Crystal Malt: L 53-72. Kilned at a fairly high temperature. A small amount of water present during roasting yields a mild caramelization. The starches are converted to sugars during the malting process; therefore mashing is not necessary for total conversion. Crystal adds body, head retention flavor and color, depending on amount used. Dextrine Malt: L 9-13. Also known as Cara-Pils. Kilned a little lower than crystal, it is sweeter than crystal. The lower temperatures mean the caramelizing does not occur. When added to a mash, it adds unfermentable sugars, which add body and head retention, but no color. Lager Malt: L 1-.4. Pale malt that has been kilned at a low temperature – it therefore gives a low color, but yields more enzymes. Can be used for ales or lagers. Adds a golden color and light body. Marris Otter: L 2-6. This is another English Pale Malt. Roasted Barley: L 300-500. This is not a malted barley, but barley that has been roasted to give a rich, dark brown grain. It is high in protein, but has no enzymes. Gives a bitter, roast flavor to dark ales, stouts, and porters. It creates a brown head. German (2 Row) Acidulated: L 2-4. Contains high levels of lactic acid and is used to adjust the malt pH without going though extra steps or additions. Used mostly by German breweries. Not usually needed by homebrewers. Recommended for Pilsners, Light and Wheat beers. Carafa (dehusked): dehusking removes the sharpness or harshness, adds a milder, smoother flavor. Carafa I: L 300-340. Gives a dark bread crust aroma and flavor, a touch of smokiness and bitter chocolate flavor. Use with dark ales, bocks and lagers. Carafa II: L 370-500. More intense than Carafa I. Smooth flavor with a bit of sharpness. Same use as Carafa I. Carafa III: L 500-570. Most intense flavors and aromas of the three. Does not taste burnt, but deeply toasted. Cara Foam: L 1.3-2.3. Also known as German Extra - Light Crystal. Use is the same as English crystal, but the color imparted is lighter, as there is less caramelization. Improves head retention. Recommended for Pilsners, light beers, and also low alcohol beers. Cara Hell: L 8-16. Gives a neutral, grainy aroma, full body, and a deep, saturated color. Recommended for Hefe-Weizens, all light beers and low-alcohol beers. Chocolate Rye: L 400-500. Gives a unique dry flavor to beers. Flavor is similar to rye bread (minus the caraway seeds). It has been roasted to this color, and is unmalted. Enhanced aroma. Use with top-fermented beers. Melanoidin: L 28-38. Improves flavor and stability. Use for red or dark ales. Munich Light: L 6.5. Kilned at higher temperatures than pale malts. Gives a full, grainy, malty flavor and aroma. Recommended for lighter German beers. Munich Dark: L 9-11. Same as above, but kilned longer. Flavors more intense. Use with darker beers. Pilsner: L 1.4-1.6. Similar to Pale malt, but less modified. Yields light color and a very malty flavor. Smoked malt: Adds a smoked flavor to the beer. Use in German Rauchbiers or Smoked Porters. Vienna: L 2.3-2.9. Gives a full flavor and deep amber color to malty beers. Recommended for Vienna, Märzen or Oktoberfest style beers. Wheat, Light: L 0.9-1.8. Lightens body, improves aroma. Recommended for Wheat beers, Hefe-Weizens, Kölsh, Altbier, light and low alcohol beers. Wheat, Dark: L 6.5-8.5. Same as above, but color more intense. Wheat, Caramel: L 48-60. Toasted bread aroma and flavor, also deep caramel flavor. Promotes body. Recommended for top-fermented beers, Hefe-Weizen and Dunkel-Weizens. Wheat, Chocolate: L 500. American 2-Row (Klages): L 1.4. Use same as Pale or Pilsner. Highly modified and also contains a high amount of enzymes. 6-Row: L 1.6. High in protein, enzymes and tannin. Best used in conjunction with other adjuncts (rice, wheat, corn). Use as for Pale or Pilsner. Special Roast: L 50. Similar to Belgian Biscuit. Gives a warm bread or biscuit flavor and aroma with a brown color. Victory: L 20. Toasted malt. Adds a reddish-orange color without the sweetness of crystal. Belgian Aromatic: L 20-25. Adds a strong malt aroma and flavor. Biscuit: L 20-25. Similar to Victory, but with darker color. Gives a warm bread aroma and flavor. Caravienne: L 19-23. Munich malt flavor and aroma. Can be used in any recipe that calls for crystal malt. Pale: L 2-4. Use as British Pale. Pilsner: L1-2. Similar to German Pilsner. Special B: L 75-150. Strong raisin and dark malt aroma and flavor. [Back To Top] Hops In addition to water, malt and yeast, hops are an essential ingredient for beer making. Not only do they give beer its distinctive taste, they also help act as a preservative, aid in clearing, promote head retention and balance the malt sweetness. Hops contain three components necessary in brewing: resins, essential (or aromatic) oils and tannins. Resins are subdivided into alpha and beta acids, with the alpha acid being the more important of the two. Hops are categorized by their alpha acid content: in general, the higher the alpha, the more bitter the hop (and vice versa). The alpha acid resins in whole, leaf or compressed plugs need to be boiled for a minimum of 60 minutes to extract the full bittering quality. Hop pellets need only 10 – 15 minutes to achieve the same extraction. High alpha hops do not contain any aroma oils, therefore are used only in the boil. Low alpha hops can be use either way. If added during a long boil, they will contribute to the bittering. If added at the end, they will add to the aroma. The aromatic oils that make up the aroma are volatile, and are lost after 15 minutes of a boil. This is why finishing hops are added during the last 5-15 minutes of a boil. Tannins combine with haze-forming proteins produced during the boil and cause them to settle out, thereby helping clear the beer. Hops are available in several forms. Pellets are powdered and compressed into pellet form. They are held together by their own oils and resins. They are the easiest to work with, offer the widest selection and don’t need to be strained out. Leaf (or loose) hops have been dried and baled, then packaged. They are usually available in the fall after harvest and need to be strained out or placed in a hop bag. Plugs are leaf hops that have been compressed into half-ounce disks and should be treated like them. They are available year-round. Hop oils and extracts are liquids to be added either during the boil or at bottling. Their popularity has dwindled, and are not as available as they used to be. Hops should be stored in airtight polyethylene bags in a cool, dark place. Light interacts with the hops and spoils them. Their appearance should be green and fragrant. Store them in the freezer (best, will stay fresh for about 2 years), or refrigerator (acceptable). They will deteriorate at room temperature within a few months. [Back To Top] Hop Varieties Bullion Average alpha: 8-11%. Coarse flavor and aroma. Spicy and pungent. Used as a bittering hop only. Recommended for stouts. Cascade Average alpha: 5-7%. Good aroma, coarser flavor than more traditional hops. Recommended for light lagers, dark beers and American ales. Centennial Average alpha: 8-10%. Mostly a bittering hop, but can also be used for aroma. Recommended for medium to dark American ales. Challenger Average alpha: 7-10%. Bittering and aroma. Recommended for British and Belgian ales. Chinook Average alpha: 11-13%. Mild, spicy aroma. Bittering similar to Bullion, but stronger. Recommended for American ales and lagers. Cluster Average alpha: 5-8%. Mild bittering with floral aroma. Classic American hop for commercial beers. Recommended for light and dark American lagers. Crystal Average alpha: 2-5%. Mild and pleasant aroma. Derived from Hallertau and Cascade. Recommended for German and American lagers. Eroica Average alpha: 10-14%. Bittering with acceptable aroma (use sparingly for aroma). Recommended for Pale ales, dark ales, and stouts. Fuggles/Willamette Average alpha: 4-6%. Virtually identical hops. Willamette was derived from Fuggles. Spicy, aromatic finishing hop. Recommended for all British and American ales. Galena Average alpha: 11-14%. Mild flavor despite high alpha. Used for bittering. Recommended for American ales and lagers. Hallertau Average alpha: 4-7%. Mellow, spicy fragrance. Can be used both for bittering and finishing. Recommended for altbiers, Belgian ales, and all Continental lagers. Kent Goldings Average alpha: 4-6%. Classic finishing hop. Good for dry-hopping. Recommended for Pale ales, bitters, porters and stouts. Lublin Average alpha: 3-5%. From Poland. Similar to Saaz. Use as finishing hop. Recommended for pilsners and Belgian ales. Mt. Hood Average alpha: 4-6%. Derived from Hallertau. Used as finishing hop. Recommended for American and German ales and lagers. Northern Brewer Average alpha: 7-11%. Bittering hop, with clean, minty flavor. Can be used in combination with Cascade and Hallertau. Can be used as a finishing hop if used in moderation. Recommended for California beers, dark English ales and German lagers. Nugget Average alpha: 11-16%. Bittering hop with a herbal/spicy aroma. Recommended for Medium to dark American ales and lagers. Perle: Average alpha: 6-11%. Developed from Hallertau and Northern Brewer. Used mainly as a bittering hop. Recommended for lagers and wheat beers. Pride of Ringwood: Average alpha: 8-10%. From Australia. Use as bittering hop. Recommended for British ales, Australian ales and lagers. Saaz: Average alpha: 3-6%. Mild, spicy aroma – one of the finest hop varieties. May be used both for bittering and finishing. Highly recommended for Czech pilsners, also continental lagers and wheats. Styrian Goldings: Average alpha: 3-7%. Not related to Kent Goldings, and is basically an Austrian Fuggles. Use as bittering and finishing. Recommended for Vienna lagers, Belgian ales or pilsners (bittering) and English ales (finishing). Tettnanger: Average alpha: 3-5%. Mild, floral and aromatic. Enhances grain aroma. Recommended for Bavarian wheats and German lagers. [Back To Top] Oak Flavor Adding Oak Flavor Oak Essence (per 5 gallons) can be added at the time of bottling. It will give any wine the finished romance of barrel aging. Red Wine add 4-8 oz to taste. If too much has been added, the excess oak taste will mellow out after a short period of time. White Wine add 1-4 oz to taste. Do not add too much, or wine will loose all of its fruity taste and aroma. Oak Chips Use 2-3 oz per 5 gallons of wine. Use after the wine has been fined, or 4-6 weeks prior to bottling. Soak chips in the sodium metabisulfite solution for 1 hour prior to use. For best results, tie chips into a muslin bag "rope" (for ease of removal from carboy). Immerse in wine. After 4 weeks, taste to see if sufficient oak flavor has been added. If not, let steep for another 2 weeks, then remove. Do not leave in wine longer than 6 weeks total. Oak Barrel All new barrels must be fully conditioned prior to use. Barrel conditioning instructions are available if needed. Barrels should be clean and sapfree. Waxed barrels are not recommended for wine and will not impart any flavor to wine, as the wax coating seals the wood. Choose an oak barrel based on individual taste, as each type of oak imparts a different taste: French Oak gives a vanilla-like flavor, while American Oak will have a more robust taste. Properly cared-for barrels can be used for up to 20 years. If wine spoils in a barrel, the barrel is also spoiled, and cannot be used for wine again. [Back To Top] Wort Chiller This is an immersion-type wort chiller. It’s designed to be immersed into boiling wort, and cold water will run through it to cool the wort. The faucet hose easily adapts to any faucet. It will cool five gallons of wort to tap water temperature within 20 – 30 minutes. Directions: Immerse chiller into boiling wort about 15 minutes before the end of the boil to sterilize it. Do not submerge the plastic hoses! The ends of the chiller may be bent to avoid this. Remove the pot from the heat and place faucet adapter over your sink faucet. Be sure drain hose is in sink before turning on cold water tap. The first gallon or so of water through the chiller will be very hot, but will cool as the wort cools off. Stir the cooling wort with a sterilized spoon occasionally to be sure all wort is getting cooled. When the wort has reached tap water temperature, remove the chiller and rinse with hot water. Let the wort stand for a few minutes to let it settle, then rack into your fermenter, leaving the trub (sediment) behind. Pitch yeast when wort has reached proper fermenting temperature. [Back To Top] Basics What do I need to make wine? The basic equipment for a five-gallon batch (about 24 bottles): a plastic bucket, a 5-gallon glass carboy, siphon hose, hydrometer, sterilizer, stopper and fermentation lock. The ingredients can be as simple as a wine kit (all ingredients except water), or a more detailed recipe. At the time of bottling, you will need two cases of bottles (regular 750 ml wine bottles), corks and a corker. What is the basic process to making wine? Wine begins in a plastic bucket (called a primary) that is slightly larger than the finished volume (i.e. 5.5 - 6 gallons to yield 5 gallons). After the initial fermentation, when it is half finished, the wine is transferred (racked) to the glass secondary. When the wine is finished fermenting, it will be racked twice more (each separated by a month). The wine will be clearer each time. The wine can be bottled after this. What is "topping off"? Once wine has been racked to secondary, it should be topped off. This means the wine should be within 1-2 inches of the stopper. If a large air space is left in the carboy, the wine will oxidize, turn brown and taste bad. When racking from primary, extra wine should be put into a smaller bottle (wine bottles with stoppers and locks) and used for topping off after each racking. This smaller quantity of wine should be treated the same as the larger one, as it is fermenting along with the rest. If extra wine is not available, a similar finished wine should be used. Water should be avoided if the quantity needed is more than 1-2 cups per 5 gallons. Adding water in greater amounts will water down the wine, making it taste watery and reduce the body. [Back To Top] Barrels Do I need a barrel to make wine? How do I use a barrel? Barrels are used to ferment, age and give a wine an oak flavor. They are the traditional container for winemaking, but are not necessary. Wine makers making less than about 20 gallons of any one type of wine are not encouraged to use one. Smaller barrels give the wine an oak flavor much quicker than large barrels (sometimes a matter of weeks as opposed to months). Oak chips or oak essence (a natural liquid extract of oak) will give the same taste without the expense. There are several types of oak barrels available. Each imparts a different type of flavor to the wine. American oak gives a strong oak flavor, and high astringency. It is best suited for strong red wines. French oak is the most favored of all. Barrels should be inspected prior to use for bacteria, mold, cracks or anything else that could interfere with the wine making process. New, unused barrels should be treated to remove the excess tannin prior to use. Old whiskey barrels should have the char removed, then treated like a new barrel to remove the tannin. Good, used barrels that are being emptied of wine but not immediately filled with new wine need to be stored with a solution of sterilizer and water to avoid the barrels going bad (sour). Barrels are expensive and valuable, and are worth taking care of properly. [Back To Top] Barrel Maintenance New unused barrels To remove excess oak tannin from a new barrel: Make a solution of 1 lb. Barolkleen or 1 lb. soda ash plus 2 teaspoons household lye to 5 gallons of hot tap water. Pour into barrel when completely dissolved. Allow solution to sit for two to three days. Drain and flush barrel three (3) times with clean water. Repeat this procedure three times for new, unused barrels. Make a solution of 1-oz sodium or potassium metabisulfite and ½ oz citric acid for each gallon of water. Use one gallon of solution for each five (5) gallons. Pour into barrel, close bung, and roll around so solution rinses all interior surfaces of barrel. Rinse again with clear water. Barrel is now ready for new wine. Old Whiskey Barrels Whiskey barrels have been charred (burned) on the inside. This char must be removed before putting wine in; or else the barrel will impart a smoky taste to the wine. A cooper will take the barrel apart, remove the char, and reassemble it. It should then be treated as a new barrel. Other Used Barrels Even if a used barrel looks clean and smells sweet, it should be thoroughly cleaned before use. Flush well with clean water and treat with the metabisulfite solution as outlined in steps 4 and 5 above. Reserve Barrels An empty barrel left standing will dry out and crack. It may also turn sour and moldy. To avoid this: Wash barrel thoroughly with cold water. Mix up a solution 2 oz sodium or potassium metabisulfite to 5 gallons of water. Make enough solution to fill the barrel. Change solution every two (2) months, until you are ready to use the barrel again. Do not use plain water, as that will cause the barrel to mold. [Back To Top] Bottling Do I need to bottle wine? How many bottles do I need? Wine should be bottled, corked and stored on its side for proper aging. Some aging does occur in the carboy or barrel, but the final aging only begins once the wine is bottled and corked. One thing that should never be done is to take off (or draw off) a portion of a carboy or barrel for immediate consumption and leave the rest. This invites oxidation of the remainder of the wine by creating a large air space on the top of the wine. Oxidized wine turns brown and bitter. In general, two cases (24 bottles) of 750ml bottles will be needed for each five gallons of wine. Used wine bottles are fine as long as they are clean and sterilized before use. Always use new corks. What are the crystals on the bottom of the wine? This is precipitated tartaric acid. It is harmless and is a natural byproduct of fermentation and aging. The crystals that settle out soften the wine and are usually seen after the wine has been kept at cool temperatures for a long period of time. If they are in the fermenting vessels, they should be left behind after racking. If in the bottle, they should be left in the bottle. They are not harmful to drink, but don't taste good. [Back To Top] Corks What size cork do I need to bottle wine? A standard wine bottle (375, 750 ml or 1.5 L) all take a #9 cork. To use this size cork, you will need a corker. A corker is the tool to insert the corks. The number of the cork refers the size: a #8 cork is smaller, and is needed for some older or cheaper corkers. A #7 cork is used only if champagne bottles are used (they are not champagne corks) or the cork is being inserted by hand (no corker used). The #9 gives the best seal. How do I prepare the corks? All natural corks need to be soaked in water before using. This softens them, making them flexible and easier to insert. The recommended method for preparation is: 1. Boil a quantity of water, and allow to cool. Put corks into a container, pour the water on top of them, and let it sit for 24-48 hours. Be sure the corks are completely submerged. 2. 10-30 minutes prior to bottling, drain off the water, and add the sterilent: sodium or potassium metabisulfite solution. Again, make sure the corks are submerged. They do not need to be drained or dried before inserting into the bottle. 3. After bottling, keep the bottles upright for 24 hours, then put on their sides for storage. Do I need to seal the bottles once they're corked? No. The wine needs to breathe through the cork to properly age. Wax, plastic or PVC seals may be added if you wish to give the bottle away, to dress it up. Which corker works with which cork? New cork types are now available for the home winemaker. The home winemaker has the choice between traditional corks ("cork corks"), ALTEC® corks (a mix of cork and synthetic resin) and Resin corks (synthetic). Different corks have different preparation and the type of cork chosen will determine which corker to use (and vice-versa). Summary Table Cork Type   Traditional Altec® Guardian Resin Single Lever Metal Corker X     Gilda® corker X X   Twin Lever Corker X   X Floor Corker X X X Altec® corks are a new type of cork now available for the home winemaker. They are composed of a new material made by fusing the purest part of cork with synthetic cells. This material produces a cork that retains all the best properties of a traditional cork, and does not leave an off-taste or odor, leak, defect in the cork surface and can easily be removed by any cork extractor. Bottles sealed with these corks also do not need to remain upright for a short period of time following corking, so they can be stored on their sides immediately. The 23 mm size is equivalent to a #9 cork. Preparation for corking is different from traditional corks, in that they do not need to be soaked prior to bottling. In fact, presoaking will cause corking problems. They are best inserted with a corker that compresses the cork using "iris compression" (floor corkers or Gilda® corkers). Using a "funnel" type corker (twin lever) may cause problems as the cork may start to expand before it is fully inserted into the bottle. Resin corks are totally synthetic. This material also does not leave an off-taste or odor, leak and can easily be removed by any cork extractor. Bottles sealed with these corks also do not need to remain upright for a short period of time following corking, so they can be stored on their sides immediately. Presoaking not needed. Insert using a twin lever or floor corker. Silicon spray or glycerin may ease insertion Traditional corks are traditional in that the cork is harvested from the cork tree. This harvest does not harm the tree and is also done at prescribed intervals to keep the tree healthy and productive. The variations seen in the corks are natural and should be expected in a natural product. They may be inserted using a single lever metal corker or a floor corker. Premium corks are corks are high quality corks and may or may not have an imprint on them (depending upon the supplier). Overrun corks are from winery bottlers, and are the "leftovers" from a bottling run -- they have never been used in a bottle. The imprint of the winery is on the cork. The quality is the same as premium. [Back To Top] Equipment for Starting From Grapes What do I need to make wine from fresh grapes? The materials needed to make wine from grapes depends in some extent on the quantity of wine you want to make. These suggestions apply to someone starting out to make 10 gallons of wine, which we suggest as a minimum. Grapes To make 10 gallons of finished wine, we recommend five 36-pound boxes of fresh grapes. Our rule of thumb for this calculation is that you need two boxes of grapes for every five gallons, and one extra box for every 10 gallons. Each box will yield aprox 2.5 gallons of juice. In order to have a final yield of 10 gallons of wine, you will need the extra grapes for topping off the fermenters at time of racking. Crusher or Crusher/Destemmer You'll need either a grape crusher or a combination crusher/destemmer. You can get by with just a crusher, and remove 75% of the stems manually after crushing. Or, if you plan on expanding your operation in later years, you may want to start out with the combination crusher/destemmer, either hand-powered or electric. Wine Press A size 30 (the diameter in centimeters) is adequate for making 10 gallons of wine, but a larger size is a wiser investment if you plan for growth. Fermenters These should be tubs or containers, preferably with draw-off spigots. You can use plastic, stainless steel or wood. You could use two large 16 gallon buckets (for a 10 gallon yield) or the Number 110 tub plastic fermenter (does not come with spigot) Secondary Fermenters These can be glass, wood or stainless steel. You will need two five-gallon jugs or carboys plus several one-gallon jugs or one additional three-gallon carboy for topping off bottles. A Book We recommend one of these books: "Techniques in Home Winemaking" by Daniel Pambianchi (Vehicule Press, 1999) or "Encyclopedia of Home Winemaking" by Pierre Drapeau and Andre Vanasse (Pendulum Press 1998). Additional supplies include: Stirring spoon or paddle Funnel Straining bags or muslin Siphon and tubing Hydrometer Acid testing kit Fermentation stoppers and locks (for each ferementer you are using). Ingredients: Based on recipe used, following ingredients should be on hand. (Refer to one of the books above.) Acid blend or individual acids Nutrient Campden tablets Sulfite Pectic enzyme Tannin Yeast [Back To Top] Fining and Filtering What is fining a wine? Fining is the removal of sediment (proteins and excess tannin among them) that can cloud a finished wine. Several different types of fining agents are available. They all work by attracting the sediment and forming heavy enough "clumps" to settle to the bottom of the fermenter. Fining agents are added prior to bottling, and should always be used prior to filtering. Bentonite is a very fine clay that is mixed with a small amount of water or wine. Isinglass is a liquid made from fish bladders. Gelatin is also used. Should I filter my wine? Filtering adds the final polish to wine, but does not need to be done. An unfiltered wine, even though clear when bottled, will usually develop a fine sediment as it ages. The sediment is very small particulate matter that all wines contain. This sediment is what is removed by filtering. Several types of filters are available to the home winemaker, both manual and electric. Before buying a filter, be sure to discuss your needs with us at Beer and Wine Hobby, as we will be able to advise you on the correct type of filter. Never filter a wine that has not been fined first, as you risk clogging up the filters. [Back To Top] Fruit, Yeast & Chemical Ingredients How much fruit do I need to make wine? For fresh fruit, other than grapes, use about three to five pounds per gallon. The acid and sugar content will need to be adjusted, as fruit generally does not have the proper acid/sugar balance to make wine. For wine grapes, 2.5 boxes (36 pounds each) will make five gallons of wine. Why should I add yeast? By adding proper wine yeast to a must (unfermented fruit/grape juice), control over the finished product is easier. Wine made without using added yeast (using wild yeast) may not properly ferment, may develop off or odd flavors/aromas, or not turn out right at all. Wild yeast by itself is very sensitive to sulfur dioxide and does not ferment when the alcohol content goes above 5%. By adding yeast specifically designed for winemaking, the winemaker has better control over the finished product and the process itself. A winemaker who depends on the "wild yeast" to make wine is taking a gamble that there is enough "good" yeast around to make good wine. By adding wine yeast, the winemaker knows the wine will ferment the way it should, and will be good in the end. Can I make wine without using chemicals or sulfites? It can be done, but you need to be very careful about your sanitation and fermentation. The wine also will not keep for very long. Sulfur dioxide is a natural by-product of wine fermentation. It is also added during the fermentation process to help protect and preserve the wine from oxidation. It inhibits or kills bacteria or wild yeast. Other chemicals (acid blend, tannin, pectic enzyme, and others) are used as needed to ensure a good, drinkable wine at the end of the process, rather than leaving it all to chance. Used as a sanitizer, everything that comes in contact with a wine (bottles, fermenters, siphon hoses, etc.) should be rinsed with a solution of half an ounce of sodium or potassium metabisulfite to one gallon of water. Just rinse the item and let it drain - do not rinse with water afterwards. [Back To Top] Grapes How do I get fresh grapes? In the fall, Beer and Wine Hobby orders fresh California grapes and six-gallon buckets of fresh-pressed juice for our local customers only (those who can come to Woburn, Mass.). All of this is pre-sold -- meaning none is purchased on speculation of anticipated sales. A special grape flyer is sent to interested wine makers in mid- to late-August. The flyer describes the available grapes, with estimated prices and the order blank. The estimated price for the boxes of grapes is just that -- estimated. The actual cost is not determined until the grapes are actually shipped. The grapes that are ordered are "House Pack," meaning they are handpicked and hand-packed. They are also premium grapes. Only the best grapes are purchased, so grapes cannot be guaranteed to be from a specific vineyard or region, as the growing conditions vary from year to year. The due date for the orders is printed on the flyer and needs to be followed! Late orders are not filled, as the order to California is placed soon after the due date. Every effort is made to fill everyone's first choice, but occasionally a second choice must be used. Buyers should order the number of cases of grapes wanted, enclose the deposit and include a second choice (should the first choice be unavailable). When the grapes come in, Beer and Wine Hobby will notify all the buyers with a scheduled time for pick up, plus the balance due. Buyers should pick up grapes within 24 hours of notification, or make arrangements to have them picked up. Customers need to understand that Beer and Wine Hobby is not in the produce business, and therefore does not have the facilities to store grapes under ideal conditions! Buyers should also be aware: grapes never come in at a convenient time! They grow and ripen on their own schedule, plus transportation from California to Massachusetts can be subject to delays! Making wine from real wine grapes is a wonderful experience, and gives the best wine - so take the time to make real wine! [Back To Top] Test Kits What is an acid test kit? How do I use it? An acid test kit allows the measurement of tartaric acid (the most important of the several acids present). A wine too high in acid is sharp and tart. One too low is flat or "flabby." The acid test kit usually contains a container to put a measured sample of wine in, a color indicator and a neutralizer. Follow the directions of the kit to determine the acid content, then make any adjustments, if needed. The best time to measure and adjust is prior to adding yeast, and also before adding any sulfite to kill wild yeast. Adding a measured amount of water can reduce a must that is too high in acid. Adding acid blend (a balanced blend of tartaric, malic and citric acid) can increase one too low in acid. Consult a good reference book for further details. What is an SO2 test kit? An SO2 (sulfur dioxide) test kit measures the amount of sulfite in wine. This measurement should be done on finished wine, at the time of bottling. Follow the directions for sampling and measurement that are in the kit.